07/18/2008
It starts Friday, finally, there are four: the undersigned (Aldo), Mario, Marco and Pierre. Meet at 7 at; to pick Marco Pierre and Mario and reach in the Kangoo sede.Carichiamo backpacks and other equipment, prepared by Mario La Trinite Gressoney and head for the first half of our adventure.
are concerned that the previous afternoon I went to the eye that I took off a metal splinter from the right eye; birth blindfolded and with the eye under treatment. We hope to heal quickly because they do not want to give up climbing.
During the journey we have problems with the Kangoo, which Apennines overheating engine but still arrive at your destination and stay at the hotel Ellex Staffal - Watch the webcam, and the hotel is nice and friendly and the evening we enjoy a beaker together.
PS Congratulations Rita. Saturday 07/19/2008
to awaken the day is sunny and after breakfast we do a first check of the equipment and then a trip to Gressoney before taking the cable car.
at noon to take the cable car up to share Salati 2970;
here we are moving towards the hut at an altitude of Vigevano in 2880 to reach about half an hour's walk in the fog. The lodge is warm and we enjoy a sandwich to eat. The we spend the afternoon at the nearby shelter Wilhelmina with a pleasant conversation with the owner who claims to have over 2500 bottles of wine in the cellar! My eye still gives me concern and I remain with the blindfold. Sunday 07/20/2008 
Day dedicated acclimatization and some exercise with crampons and abseiling. The afternoon rains, and then we engage in long games of cards. The eye still hurts and I'm worried for the rest, hopefully better tomorrow. Monday 21/07/2008
On the Way! After breakfast and photographed the paintings in the Margherita peak,
leave for Mantua the refuge at an altitude of 3500 that count to reach in 4 hours of travel. Reached step Salati begin the climb between the characteristics of rocks of the Val d'Aosta. The first stage aims to share Indren 3260, from here see the little Gnifetti which is located just above the hut Mantua, our next stop. From here we cross the glacier Indren and brings us under the shelter that we reach carefully climbing the last stretch. We enjoy the spectacle of the helicopter, which supplies the refuge.
The Mantova hut greets us in the confusion of the other climbers and we settle in a large room on the second floor. The fee does not
causes us problems and we enjoy the spectacle of Saracchi be seen from the refuge.
hot dinner in the evening, playing cards and sleep. Tomorrow we leave for the camp at an altitude of 4180 Jordanians.
The night passed between the sounds of the wind and the collapse of some Saracco. The eye is now greatly improved! Tuesday 07/22/2008
We wake up with a strong wind that lifts the snow and reducing visibility. This time the preparation is longer because we have to wear crampons and harness in addition to covering the wind. Tie the ax and the backpack harness and prepare the rope for the climber.
9 o'clock we start with the wind that disturbs more than a little advanced. In 3600 Pierre to share some problems and decided not to continue stopping at the refuge Gnifetti nearby. We also reorganized and decide to continue with caution since if the wind and poor visibility. Every half hour we point to assess the position and decide whether to continue or go back.
The wind is very strong and go is not easy.
At 14:30 we get a view of the camp that we hope to achieve in a couple of hours. Let's take the last street that leads us right under the rock where the camp is located with difficulty and only after we realize the ravine near the road.
One more effort to climb to reach the bivouac after putting down a rope as the frozen ground.
find a bivouac in French (as defined by Mark, disturbing presence) and his partner, but in bivouac bags 8 count including our own, and in fact shortly after arriving three other climbers Serbs. The temperature is about 8 degrees, but after the effort is good. In the evening, eat a little 'cheese and organize ourselves for the night: 2 to 6 in the attic and ground floor. What
tiring day but the tip Gnifetti with Margherita hut at an altitude of 4554 is closer.
The eye seems healed, also saw the wind today. Wednesday 23/07/2008
The day has the sun, perfect, apart from the wind, however, much weaker than the previous day. At 10 we are already on the rope to the Margherita with other climbers. We continue constants and fatigue begins to be felt. The sight of the glacier was gorgeous and the Lys immense. We are just dots in all that white.
At 13 we are under the Margherita, but the effort and I probably share the stretch. I really think that he could not do it. Right now I see half a short distance but still more than 100 vertical meters with a stretch even challenging ... that anger. But Marco brings out the magic potion: minerals to be dissolved in very little water left, some of dextrose tablets and chocolate put me back in strength to continue. At 14:15 we reach the refuge. We are exhausted but the emotion and spectacle. We did it! In
shelter refreshed us with three hot soups and three bottles of water that we will also celebrate the return and with a glass of Chianti ... but that price! (I would have paid any money to the soup in a brick). few minutes for some pictures and it's time to lose out to go to the shelter at an altitude of 3600 Gnifetti before nightfall.
The descent is certainly easier if we have to remain vigilant for the presence of numerous crevasses. During the descent, we do not find hardly anyone in the immensity of the ice and this alone creates a sense of anxiety mixed with fear.
At 19 Gnifetti reach the shelter where we expect to Pierre.
evening to tell us the day and in bed early to recover.
Day Thursday 07/24/2008 back to the valley with the sun high in the sky.
The descent to the pass Salati is fairly quiet except for a short distance we had to do with crampons and ice ax view of the danger. Reach up to 16 Salati, refreshed us with a beer and take the cable car to return to the valley.
Back at the hotel we take the first shower after a week of hard work.
the evening I see a photograph of Margaret in the dining room and I wonder if we really were there. We enjoy the satisfaction of having made it and begin to think about the next summit. Friday 25/07/2008
the morning we quietly arranged for the departure for Rome in the evening after that we will reach a day trip in traffic and under the scorching heat. A thousand times better climb Rosa.
Greetings to all and thanks for the encouragement.
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